Must-SeeCortina d'Ampezzo
The Dolomites' most glamorous resort, a Winter Olympics host in 1956 and 2026.

Cortina, Val Gardena and the pale peaks of the Alps.
The Dolomites are Italy's most spectacular mountains: towers, spires and walls of pale limestone rising straight out of green alpine meadows in the northeast of the country, across South Tyrol, Trentino and the Veneto. At sunset the rock glows pink and orange, a light the locals call enrosadira, and nine of the mountain groups together form a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Base yourself in a valley: Cortina d'Ampezzo for the Tre Cime and the great passes, Val Gardena for the Seceda ridge, or the Alpe di Siusi, the largest high meadow in Europe. Summer is for hiking and climbing on fixed-cable routes, winter for one of the largest linked ski areas in the world.
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Must-SeeThe Dolomites' most glamorous resort, a Winter Olympics host in 1956 and 2026.
Must-SeeLadin villages under the jagged Seceda ridge, one of the Dolomites' great views.
Worth a DetourEurope's largest high meadow, facing the Dolomites' sharpest peaks.
Worth a DetourThe Italian-Austrian gateway to the Dolomites, home of Ötzi the Iceman.
If You're NearbyThe Dolomites' highest peak, topped by their only large glacier.
Grey pins: guides still being written.
The valleys are joined by high mountain passes, beautiful but slow, with hairpin bends and heavy summer traffic. Regional buses run between the main valleys, and cable cars and chairlifts carry hikers up to the high trails. The road to the Tre Cime charges a toll, and a few roads limit cars at the busiest times.
Summer days are warm in the valleys and cool on the peaks, and afternoon thunderstorms are common in July and August, so start hikes early. Snow covers the passes from about December to April. Many lifts and mountain huts close between seasons, from April to June and from October to early December.
The cooking is half Tyrolean, half Italian: canederli, bread dumplings served in broth; speck, the smoked ham of South Tyrol; spinach-filled schlutzkrapfen; polenta with mushrooms; and apple strudel. Mountain huts serve hearty lunches with a view.
Many places have two or three names, in German, Italian and Ladin: Ortisei is also St. Ulrich. Book rooms early for August and the ski holidays. Lifts and huts open only from about mid-June to late September, and from December to Easter.