The Dolomites

Cortina, Val Gardena and the pale peaks of the Alps.

Photo: kallerna · CC BY-SA 4.0

The Dolomites are Italy's most spectacular mountains: towers, spires and walls of pale limestone rising straight out of green alpine meadows in the northeast of the country, across South Tyrol, Trentino and the Veneto. At sunset the rock glows pink and orange, a light the locals call enrosadira, and nine of the mountain groups together form a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Base yourself in a valley: Cortina d'Ampezzo for the Tre Cime and the great passes, Val Gardena for the Seceda ridge, or the Alpe di Siusi, the largest high meadow in Europe. Summer is for hiking and climbing on fixed-cable routes, winter for one of the largest linked ski areas in the world.

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Best Time
Late June–September for hiking; December–March for skiing
Ideal Trip
5–7 days
Fly Into
Venice (VCE), Verona (VRN) or Innsbruck (INN); trains reach Bolzano from Verona in about 1½ hours
Getting Around
A car for the passes; buses and cable cars link the valleys in summer

The Short List

Type
Rank

On the Map

Grey pins: guides still being written.

By Region

Good to Know

Getting Around

The valleys are joined by high mountain passes, beautiful but slow, with hairpin bends and heavy summer traffic. Regional buses run between the main valleys, and cable cars and chairlifts carry hikers up to the high trails. The road to the Tre Cime charges a toll, and a few roads limit cars at the busiest times.

Weather

Summer days are warm in the valleys and cool on the peaks, and afternoon thunderstorms are common in July and August, so start hikes early. Snow covers the passes from about December to April. Many lifts and mountain huts close between seasons, from April to June and from October to early December.

Food

The cooking is half Tyrolean, half Italian: canederli, bread dumplings served in broth; speck, the smoked ham of South Tyrol; spinach-filled schlutzkrapfen; polenta with mushrooms; and apple strudel. Mountain huts serve hearty lunches with a view.

Before You Go

Many places have two or three names, in German, Italian and Ladin: Ortisei is also St. Ulrich. Book rooms early for August and the ski holidays. Lifts and huts open only from about mid-June to late September, and from December to Easter.